Ingredients

Here is a list of the ingredients that are used, and a brief description of what they do...

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surfactants 

SLSa: Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate- A surfactant (foaming/ lathering agent) derived from coconut and palm oils, it is used in our cleanser blends for its mildness, fabulous lather and easy rinsing properties. It should not be confused with SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate), which is a cheap foamer that many people find irritating. Not a sulfate.

SCI: Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate: A surfactant derived from coconut oil, SCI does not dehydrate the skin or hair as it removes dirt and oils. It is mild enough to be used in baby wash formulas. Not a sulfate.

Cocamidopropyl Betaine: a mild liquid co-surfactant made from coconut oil that is used in conjunction with other lathering agents to increase mildness and stabilize the foam. Not a sulfate. 

Stepan-Mild BSB (Baby-Safe Blend)

Stepan-Mild LSB

Disoduim Laureth Sulfosuccinate: a mild, slightly acidic liquid booster surfactant. Not a sulfate. 

Sodium C14-16 [Alpha] Olefin Sulfonate: (Powder form, aka Bio-Terge AS90) A big-bubble flash foamer, excellent in bubble baths! This surfactant powder has a high pH though, so we only use it in bubble baths where it is  A) blended with milder surfactants; and B) dispersed in a great ratio of water ( a few scoops in 100+ liters). Not a Sulfate.

SCS: Sodium Coco Sulfate- A creamy foamer that works well in hard water, this surfactant is a milder alkyl sulfate than its despised cousin, SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. SLS can come from palm, palm kernel, coconut or babassu oil, while SCS is only sourced from coconut.) SCS retains more of the fatty acids and is generally accepted as a gentler alternative to SLS. We only use it in bubble bath formulas at a rate of less than 3% where it is  A) blended with milder surfactants; and B) dispersed in a great ratio of water ( a few scoops in 100+ liters).

humectants

Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) is exactly what it sounds like: the loss of a body's moisture as it passes through the epidermis into the atmosphere. Humectants draw water to them, which can be tricky... they can draw moisture from the air to your skin; or they can draw moisture from the deep layers of the skin to evaporate outwards. Because of this when they are used in skincare they are used in conjunction with something occlusive that forms a barrier against TEWL. Butters, Oils, Fatty Alcohols/ Acids/ Esters, Dimethicone and Allantoin are all occlusives.

Sodium Lactate: A humectant that also helps harden the bars, sodium lactate is the salt of lactic acid and is a naturally occurring constituent in the skin's moisture retention system.

Glycerin: (aka Vegetable glycerin) A thick, viscous, sweet liquid that can be made from coconut or palm.

Propanediol 1,3: A humectant derived from corn sugar.

 


conditioning agents, emulsifiers and thickeners

 

BTMS50: [Behentrimonium Methosulfate + Cetyl Alcohol] 

A cationic, or positively charged, conditioning agent/ emiulsifier featuring Behentrimonium Methosulfate, which is made from canola. Cationic compounds are drawn to the hair and skin, which have a negative charge. This is how conditioners stay in the hair and on the skin instead of going down the drain when you rinse. 

ICE Conditioner: [Cetyl Alcohol, Behenrtrimonium Chloride, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sorbitan Laurate] A cationic conditioning and emulsifying blend derived from canola, coconut and vegetable oils.

Cetyl Alcohol: A fatty alcohol that gives hair and skincare products body, slip, and a velvety feel, it is made from vegetable oil.

Glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate: (aka Glyceryl Stearate SE) This is a non-ionic emulsifier made from coconut and olive oils.

Cetrimonium Chloride: A liquid quaternary ammonium salt that functions as a cationic conditioning agent. AKA CETAC 30%, it's used in very small quantities and is fantastic at detangling. 

 

proteins, nutrients and extracts

Hydrolysates and Hydrolyzed Proteins are protein molecules that are broken into smaller fragments that bind more readily to the keratin that makes up our skin and hair.

Keratin Hydrolysate SILOX: from Formulator Sample Shop:

...is a mixture of protein and silicone in water that is able to penetrate the hair cortex, building strength from within. Its film forming capabilities help reinforce, lubricate and protect the hair’s surface. Once the hydrolyzed protein has penetrated the hair’s cortex, its hydrophilic nature promotes an unmatched moisture binding capacity. These properties combine to restore and strengthen the hair. When hair is strengthened, the degree of damage from chemical treatments, heat styling, and the environment is lessened.

Hydrolyzed Oat Protein/ Oat Hydrolysate: Oat proteins smooth and soften. This protein is highly valued in both hair and skincare formulas.

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein: Rice has both cationic amino acids to bind to hair,  and anionic amino acids to repel hair strands from one another. This creates up to 30% more VOLUME! 

Hydrolyzed Quinoa Protein: Quinoa for COLOR! This film-forming, protective protein is the choice for color-treated hair. From Lotioncrafter:
Cationic amino acids bind to the cuticle and act as an anchor to bind hydrolyzates to the hair. This allows for enhanced deposition of other substances (e.g. colorants) with a weaker affinity. Anionic amino acids create a scaffold around the hair to protect the strands and hair color. These side chains contribute to increased barrier function that will help give hair better overall health. 

Vegetable Keratin: Your skin and hair are both built of keratin, a structural protein also found in nails, horns, hooves and claws...and plants. This hydrolyzed protein is from corn, wheat and soybeans; [from Formulator Sample Shop] 

In hair care, [keratin] hydrolyzed proteins are able to penetrate the outermost layer called the cuticle. In doing so, these proteins offer protective benefits by helping to repair split ends and cuticle damage, increasing strength and elasticity and limiting the adverse effects of chemical processing.

Kale Protein Blend: Oh wow just read the copy from the company.... There's another page about efficacy with photos

Panthenol B5- (I used to write "Vegetable-derived Panthenol B-5" but that got really old fast. For The Record: I only use Vegetable-derived Panthenol.)

A natural substance that can be produced from both plant and animal sources, Panthenol gives hair and skin elasticity, reduces breakage in hair and promotes smoothness in skin. I put it in pretty much everything. 

10x Chamomile Extract: Chamomile has been used for thousands of years, prized for its soothing qualities. 

Marrubium Extract

Nettle Extract

Bamboo Extract

Rhodiola Rosea Extract

White Tea Extract

Olive Leaf Extract

Bisabolol

Allantoin

Hyaluronic Acid 

 

butters, oils, & other emollients

Mango Butter

Shea Butter

Cocoa Butter

Sal Butter

Kokum Butter

Argan OIl

Jojoba Oil

Rice Bran Oil

Fractionated Coconut Oil

Coconut Oil

Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Pumpkin Seed Oil

Meadowfoam Seed Oil

Evening Primrose Oil

Broccoli Seed Oil

Daikon Seed Oil

Dimethicone

Cyclomethicone

Squalane